FullForce ad: Read this if you drive a GM

I install full deletes, tuners, and plug-in disablers on GM trucks for a living. If you're trying to figure out which one makes sense for a truck that has to be reliable: this is the honest comparison nobody else will give you. The ones who tow the camper, haul the family, run the work that doesn't stop just because the truck does. They always ask me the same question. "Just tell me what makes sense for a truck that has to be reliable. I don't want to go deep into this. I just don't want to be the one calling from the side of a highway." I respect that. So let me lay this out the way I'd lay it out for that person. But first, the thing that causes the failure. Because if you're going to protect the truck that carries everyone, you need to understand what you're protecting against. Since 2007, these 5.3 and 6.2 liter GM engines (Silverados, Sierras, Tahoes, Yukons, Suburbans, Escalades) shut off half their cylinders while you drive. To save a little gas. GM calls it AFM. The lifters that run it have a tiny locking pin inside each one that cycles on and off thousands of times a week, on every family road trip, every towing run, every school run, every highway mile with people in the back seat depending on you. When that pin wears out, the lifter collapses and can take the camshaft with it. And it does not warn you. "Running great until I pulled off the freeway for gas. As soon as I pulled into the gas station it started running like crap. In the middle of nowhere Iowa." "Left us stranded 1,000 miles from home. My wife refused to get in the Tahoe any more. So it's long gone." "I don't want to be pulling my camper with my family and have the truck fail on me again because they only replaced half of the defective parts." "Biggest fear is having no truck for months due to supply chain issues." Real owners. Real moments. The truck that everyone counted on became the truck that let everyone down, far from home, with no warning, at the worst possible time. You have four ways to stop the cycling that causes this. Here they are, honestly. Option 1: Full mechanical delete / cam swap. The permanent fix. Non-AFM cam, standard lifters, retune. Roughly $2,500 DIY, $7,000 to $10,000 at a shop. Days without the truck. Right call if the engine is already apart or has already failed. Significant commitment for a healthy truck. Option 2: Tuner (Pulsar, HP Tuners, Diablo). $200 to $500. Kills cylinder deactivation in software. Owners who tow love the extra throttle features. Writes to the ECU. The AFM hardware is still physically in the engine: you're removing the command, not the parts. Option 3: M-mode. Free. Shift to Manual, hold below top gear, AFM doesn't engage. Works while you remember it. The moment you don't, or hand the keys to your spouse or your kid, it's cycling again. Not a real fix for a truck other people drive. Option 4: Plug-in disabler (FullForce). About $80. Thirty seconds. OBD-II port. Keeps every cylinder firing all the time. No tune. No ECU footprint. No teardown. Fully reversible. The truck runs exactly as it did, just without the cycling that drives the failure. For the owner who just wants the truck to stay reliable for the people counting on it (without spending a grand, without opening anything, without hoping whoever's driving remembers to shift into M-mode), the plug is the easy answer. It's the safest option on this list that doesn't ask anything hard of you, and the most convenient one that still actually does the job. It's not the most permanent solution. The full delete is. But it's the cheapest, cleanest way to remove the failure driver from a healthy truck today, and if you ever decide to go further, you've lost almost nothing. One honest note: a plug protects a healthy engine. It won't undo damage that's already started. If you're already hearing a tick, get it looked at first. Owners who protected the truck before the highway: "AFM disabled for the last 25k miles. Zero issues out of it and it's at 108k." "Got an AFM disabler and it's running like a beauty." "WOW what a difference it made. Running on all 8 cylinders now permanently. Throttle response is so much better, shutter has been eliminated completely and the engine sounds excellent." "Smoother idle, better throttle response, no shudder or hesitation on a 400 mile road trip." "The best upgrade I could have made to my Yukon." That 400-mile road trip. No shudder. No anxiety. No listening for something that isn't supposed to be there. That's what the truck that carries your family is supposed to feel like. Here's the short version: you don't have to know anything about this engine. You plug one thing in, once, and it's done. It's not the biggest fix on the list above. It's the one people actually get around to doing. And it's real: GM already put this problem in writing. For a truck that has to be reliable, that's the safe call. And the easy one. About $80. Thirty seconds. 60-day guarantee. Fully reversible: unplug it and the truck goes back to factory. 🚨 EDIT: The plug I tell people about is FullForce. Here's the link: 👉 https://www.tryfullforce.com/products/fullforce™-afm-dfm-disabler 60-day guarantee. The families who put one in before the road trip. None of them have called me from the side of a highway. through the link below.